PDF pattern preparation part 2

Continuation of the PDF pattern preparation tutorial.
Waspie pattern I’ve chosen as an example can be picked up for free.

free waspie pattern anna
BACK TO PART 1
–Seam allowances–

Keep in mind that patterns that I make don’t have seam allowances added to them, making the pattern size measurements as is.
You have to add seam allowances later on, either on paper or directly on fabric.
Seam allowance width will depend on seam type you choose for construction of your project.

Welt seam is a very popular choice in corset making.
It’s very simple to make and it can double as a boning channel.
Seam allowance for welt seams should be at around 5/16 inch or 0.8 centimeter wider than the width of chosen boning. .

–Basics of Welt Seams for corsets–

To actually make it, we first stitch the pattern pieces together using a plain seam.

Next, we iron both seam allowances to the same side, away from the center front.

To finish it,  we top stitch a boning channel on the face side of the fabric.

–Working with “normal” sizes–

When everything is prepared, use the excel measurements chart to choose the most suitable standard size for your corset.

Find the letter and color code that corresponds with the desired standard size.

Also find it on the pattern nest and mark it.

Time has come to decide if you prefer to add your seam allowances to you paper pattern or directly on to fabric.
It is possible to add seam allowances on the print paper but you won’t be able to do that for some larger sizes as there is no room for them.
So, for larger sizes, you will have to cut your chosen size out and glue or trace it on a new sheet of paper before adding seam allowances to it.

Now back to cutting…
Do try to be as precise as you can and keep to the inside of the line so you don’t accidentally make the pattern a size or two larger.
It will not be the end of the world if you make a small boo boo now and then because you will do better next time.

–Customizing available sizes–

In the case of feeling adventurous, you can spice things up and choose separate standard sizes for separate circumferences to customize your pattern if you fall between sizes.
After you determine what standard sizes are the closest to your measurements, you should mark them on all patterns pieces on the point where horizontal utility line crosses the chosen size line.

When all is marked out, use a pencil for this part and start off by connecting the marked size points using a ruler.

Next part will differ from person to person but do bear with me here…
Draw two short parallel lines at 3/8 inch or 1cm away from waist up and down.
They will serve as a guide to help you smooth out the new waist line if it turned way to angular.
Just draw a gently inward curve from the waist to the point where the parallel line crosses the seam line.

For some extra help in forming the rib and hip curve, find the middle on the straight line and „kick out“ a short right angle on it, no more than 3/16 inch or 0.5cm.
This point is where your outward curve will probably be the plumpiest.

No need to get crazy with it, you just have to smooth out that rigid straight line and kind of give it some flow.

… and yes, those are totally legit technical terms and I’m totally not telling you to kind of, sort of eyeball it.

Now you can tidy up your new curved seam lines by using a French curve and a pen that will make it stand out from the pattern nest.

CONTINUE TO PART 3

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