How to draft a corset vest pattern?

How to draft a corset vest pattern?

I won’t lie, it’s not as easy as most of tutorials found on Aranea Black page. It’s not insanely difficult but this one requires some previous knowledge and experience with flat pattern drafting.

This is because I haven’t covered the instructions on drafting a made to measure basic block. Also known as a sloper.

There are many different methods and systems of drafting garment patterns. Any will do, just pick one and stick with it. Since my formal education for a Garment Technician is based on M. Müller & Sohn , it’s what I’ve used for my base.

This method can be applied to any overbust pattern, not just Aranea Black Patterns. You can use self-drafted, antique or branded patterns. The principle stays the same. We want to extend the pattern all the way to the shoulder seam.

I hope that the higher difficulty of this tutorial won’t discourage you from fiddling with patterns and playing with corset designs. Corsetry is just a skill, and any skill can be learned.

Enjoy the tutorial and make ALL the corsets!!!

Method is demonstrated on Overbust corset pattern IVY though the same principle can be applied to any other underbust corset pattern.

Free corset patterns

Aside from the instructional tutorial being available online, it can also be DOWNLOADED as a PDF file for offline viewing.

 tutorial on how to Drafting a Corset Vest Pattern

Drafting a Corset Vest Pattern

introduction into the tutorial on how to draft a corset vest

Corsets are such a fascinating & mesmerizing garment, we want to incorporate it them into so many different styles, designs, and GARMENTS.

For some, it isn’t enough to wear a corset under a vest.
For some, corset needs to be THE vest!

That’s where this tutorial and me come in.

Be warned though. This corset pattern tutorial is best suited for those that have experience with flat pattern drafting.

As with many corset patterns, we start with a basic block. Also known as a sloper.

Pattern used as an example is Overbust Corset Pattern IVY by AraneaBlack.

explaining what will be used in tutorial how to draft corset vest pattern

I’ve drafted the basic block used in this tutorial, based on the M. Müller & Sohn Pattern System but you can use what ever option is available to you.

Draft the basic block without wear ease and apply negative ease only to the waist line (as waist reduction).

If using a corset pattern that has a back lacing gap, don’t forget to alter the back to include it.

The corset pattern we’ll use needs to fit us and it must have major circumference lines marked.

If the corset patterns hasn’t been altered and fitted to our needs, we will have a much harder time altering and fitting it as a corset vest.

Measureing corset and basic block pattern pieces on the bust and waist circumference lines

Before we combine the basic block with the corset pattern, we must measure the bust and waist circumference on both patterns.

If those two aren’t the same, change the basic block to fit the corset measurements.

X1 = X2
    and 
Y1 = X2

Start of merging corset and basic block pattern pieces together

We will use the basic block to draft on parts of the vest that the corset’s missing.

With patterns prepared, we lay our corset pattern pieces on the basic block.

Using the waist line as the guide, match up center front and back as well as side pattern pieces.

Placing the rest of the corset pattern pieces onto the basic block

To position the rest of corset pattern pieces, we want to use basic block darts for orientation.

Corset pattern pieces don’t have to fit perfectly over the darts.

We will work with close enough if it looks right, and tweak the rest during the fitting stage.

Drawing the outline of the corset vest neck line and armhole

With the patterns positioned, we start drawing the vest shape.

We make the neck and arm holes wider for more comfort, and for me front “V”.

Planing out and drawing new seam lines that extend corset pattern pieces into the basic block

Now to extend corset seam lines into the vest.

Seam lines can be extended into the neck or arm hole or shoulder seam. Usual dart manipulation.

We make the corset larger where the block needs it, and we’ll tweak the pattern details in the mock up stage.

New corset vest pattern pieces drafted and adjusted

At this point, we move all the darts, cut new seam lines, measure and adjust everything.

Since we can move style lines basically where ever and how ever we want, your pattern might look completely different.
Have fun with it!

Tutorial diagrams just illustrate the method. They are not functional patterns!

End of tutorial on how to draft a corset vest pattern

Corset vest pattern is ready for a boned mockup and fitting so we can do the final adjustments.

This is just the start. Using this method, we can draft a lapel, change the bottom edge or add sleeves!

Longer the corset, more restrictive it is.

 

Happy sewing!