How to draft cupped hip corset pattern modification?

How to draft cupped hip corset pattern modification?

As always, the method itself is simple so we start with the basics. In this tutorial, you will learn how the corset pattern modification technique works. With time and experience, you will learn how and where to apply it for the best results.

You might ask yourself, why would anyone need to “cup” their hips in a corset. The answer is simple. Different people are different. We are built differently, we have different preferences, wants and needs. The more you know, better you can serve yourself and others!

You will find out that tightlacers usually benefit the most from very hourglass shaped corsets. After a certain waist reduction (which varies from person to person for many different reasons), conical corset shape starts pressing rather uncomfortably on to the wearers hips.
Since human bones can’t be moved (they can but we don’t want that), corsets needs to move instead.

This can be done by drafting gussets and/or gores (or flutes) into the corset pattern like Iris Norris preferred.
Or we can curve out the seam lines as shown in the following tutorial!

Enjoy the tutorial and make ALL the corsets!!!

 

Enjoy the tutorial and make ALL the corsets!!!

Method is demonstrated on Underbust corset pattern LOLITA though the same principle can be applied to any other underbust corset pattern.

Free corset patterns

Aside from the instructional tutorial being available online, it can also be DOWNLOADED as a PDF file for offline viewing.

Tutorial on how to draft corset cupped hip pattern modification

Pattern Modification : Cupped hips

Introduction to how to draft cupped hips corset pattern modification

Conical shaped corset look great but they also have limitations, especially for people with very low body fat, short torsos as well as high waist reduction.

We can change the more conical shaped pattern to a more hourglass one by cupping the hips over their highest point.

By doing so, we make the corset more comfortable because we’ve lifted pressure and created more room for the flesh to more to.

Also, THEM CURVES!

Pattern used as an example is Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA by AraneaBlack.

Instructions on locating the iliac crest and the high hip circumference measurement for corset pattern drafting

Start by locating the top of the iliac crest and it’s highest point.

Iliac crest is the edge of the ilium bone.

The very top of out iliac crest is our high hip measurement.

Middle hip is where the iliac crest sticks out the most, in the front.

How to measure the high hip circumference for corsets

With the important bone points identified, found, mark them on the body with an eyeliner pencil or something easily removable.

Measure the distance between the natural waist line and the high hip.

Measure the high hip circumference.

Drafting the position of high hip circumference onto corset pattern

Take your pattern and locate the waist and middle hip line, if it’s not already marked.

Measure the distance between your waist to high hip line, from the patterns waist line down.

Draw a long line that’s parallel to the waist.

Measuring corset patterns high hip circumference

Measure the high hip circumference of the corset pattern.
Take the back lacing gap width into account if the pattern has it.

Divide the body high hip circumference in half.

Subtract the pattern high hip from the body high hip circumference.

Instructions on where to add the high hip circumference difference

Depending on the number and shape of pattern pieces as well as body anatomy and wearers goals, spread the high hip difference.

This doesn’t have to be even over all pattern pieces but it’s a good start.

Tutorial focuses mainly on the side and middle side pattern seams, where the iliac crest is usually the widest.

How to calculate the high hip circumference difference and where on the corset pattern to apply it

For this example, we have a difference of 25mm (50mm total) or 1” (2” total) to spread over 5 pattern seam lines.

Hip difference / Seams = Add per seam
25 / 5 = 5mm (marked as “a”)

Add the value of “a” to the high hip line of focused pattern seam lines.

Drafting new pattern lies based on the marks for the new high hip corset circumference

Connect waist line to the high hip mark.

Connect high hip mark to the middle hip line of the pattern seam.

Draft new smooth curved seam lines.

With more experience, you’ll learn where to add more or less to the pattern, to better fit the wearers unique body.

End of the tutorial on how to draft cupped high hip corset pattern modifications

Tutorial diagrams are exaggerated for demonstration purposes.

Walk your seams and make any and all changes and adjustments.

Your pattern is ready for a mock up/toile!

 

Happy sewing!!!