How to draft cupped rib corset pattern modifications?

How to draft cupped rib corset pattern modifications?

As always, the method itself is simple so we start with the basics. In this tutorial, you will learn how the corset pattern modification technique works. With time and experience, you will learn how and where to apply it for the best results.

You might ask yourself, why would anyone need to “cup” their ribs in a corset. The answer is simple. Different people are different. We are built differently, we have different preferences, wants and needs. The more you know, better you can serve yourself and others!

You will find out that tightlacers as well as male corset wearers, usually benefit the most from very hourglass shaped corsets. After a certain waist reduction (which varies from person to person for many different reasons), conical corset shape starts pressing rather uncomfortably on to the wearers ribs.

To reduce more, person would have to “train” their ribs, if that’s even a possibility for them as some people have very inflexible rib cages. A lot of the time, those people are male.

Since human bones can’t be moved (they can but we don’t want that), corsets needs to more instead.
This can be done by drafting gussets and/or gores (or flutes) into the corset pattern like Iris Norris preferred. Or we can curve out the seam lines as shown in the following tutorial!

Enjoy the tutorial and make ALL the corsets!!!

Method is demonstrated on Overbust corset patterns IVY though the same principle can be applied to any other corset patterns.

Free corset patterns

Aside from the instructional tutorial being available online, it can also be DOWNLOADED as a PDF file for offline viewing.

Tutorial on how to draft cupped ribs corset pattern modification.

Cupped rib corset pattern modification!

Introduction to how to draft cupped ribs corset pattern modification

Conical torso shaped corsets look great but they also have some limitations, especially for people with wide rib cages as well as for high waist reductions.

We can change a conical shaped pattern to an hourglass shape by cupping the ribs through adding more room over the rib cage.

By going this, we make the corset more comfortable because we lifted pressure and allowed for larger waist reduction.
Also, THEM CURVES!

Pattern used as an example is Overbust Corset Pattern IVY by AraneaBlack.

Measuring instructions

Take your pattern and locate the waist and underbust line if it’s not already marked.

Measure the distance to your false rips from the waist line up.

Draw a long line that’s parallel to the waist line.

Drafting the position of lase rib pair onto corset pattern

Size measurements chart has circumference values of the corset pattern so you know exactly what you’re working with.

This makes it very easy to apply grading between sizes and other adjustment methods for a better fit.

This also means that your measurements need to be prepared according to instructions, before you use them.

Measuring corset patterns false rib circumference

Measure the rib circumference on of the corset pattern.

Subtract the corset rib measurement from the body circumference measurement.

Be careful to take into account the back lacing gap if the corset has it.

Instructions on where to add the rib circumference difference

Divide the value of difference in half.

Depending on the number and shape of pattern pieces, your anatomy and goal,spread the difference.

We will mainly focus on middle front seams as well as sides, as marked on diagram.

How to calculate the rib circumference difference and where on the corset pattern to apply it

In this example,we have a difference of 25mm (50mm total) or 1” (2” total) to spread over 6 seam lines.

Half difference / Seam lines = Add per seam
25 / 6 = 4,166 mm (Marked as “a”)

Add the value “a” to the rib circumference on focused seam lines.

Drafting new pattern lies based on the marks for the new rib circumference

Connect the underbust lines to new rib marks.

Connect rib marks with the waist line.

Smooth out the lines into curves.

Measure the rib circumference of the patterns. Adjust if needed.

End of the tutorial on how to draft cupped rib corset pattern modifications

Walk your pattern pieces and make any and all necessary adjustments.

Your pattern is ready for a mockup/toile to test the fit for the unique you!

 

Happy sewing!!!