How to fit a corset mockup to redistribute the underbust circumference better?

How to fit a corset mockup to redistribute the underbust circumference better?

When we make corsets, there are many elements to consider as we hold all the power over the finished corset. So, during the mockup stage, we might (read:definitely will) encounter problems with the fit. One of those fit problems might be a back muffin top. Now, they can be challenging as there are a few different things that cause them and different causes, require different solutions. For that reason, the tricky part with fitting, is in identifying what is causing the problem and it’s not always obvious.

In this tutorial, we focus on one cause, and, with that, one solution. To figure out if the back muffin top is caused by the corsets edge and the bra band working together to squeeze our flesh into an unsightly problem, we need to try the mockup (or finished corset) without the bra on. If the back muffin top basically disappears when we remove our bra… the bra band is causing it and we can go on ahead and apply this tutorials “How to draft a high back?” to fix it.

On the other hand, if the back muffin top stays, maybe a bit smaller but still there? Something else is causing it so on to the next step!

At this point, check if the front of the corset is fitting snugly. The following tutorial is for you and your mockup if it is loose and/or gaping from your body. Now we are talking about needing to redistribute the underbust circumference and move the extra fabric to the back, that is too tight!

Enjoy the tutorial and make ALL the corsets!!!

Method is demonstrated on Underbust corset pattern LOLITA though the same principle can be applied to any other underbust corset pattern.

Free corset patterns

Aside from the instructional tutorial being available online, it can also be DOWNLOADED as a PDF file for offline viewing.

Tutorial on How to fit a corset mockup to redistribute the underbust circumference better?

How to fit a corset mockup to redistribute the underbust circumference better?

Introduction to the topic of fitting a corset mock up on corset patterns

We are back to talking about a common fitting problem with underbust corsets.

THE BACK MUFFIN TOP

As mentioned in the High back drafting tutorial, there are a few different reasons for the flesh oozing over the corsets back edge.

Corset is:

  • generally too small from waist up
  • too small in the back while being to large in the front
  • fitting fine but flesh gets squeezed between the corsets edge and the bra band

Pattern used as an example is Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA by AraneaBlack.

Explanation how to identify what is causing the problem of back flesh oozing over the corset edge

Different causes of this problem require different solutions.

In this tutorial, we’ll talk about the situation in which flesh oozes in the back while the front (or the sides) of the corset is loose.

This isn’t something that can be solved by drafting a higher back as the problem is most likely cause by mismatch of the underbust circumference distribution of the pattern to that of the wearers body.

When worn, patterns has too much of the underbust measurement in the front instead of the back.

Preparing the mock up for fitting and redistributing the underbust circumference

This problem is easy to identify when we are looking at the fit of the corset mockup/toile.

While standing in a neutral body position, the front of the mockup is lose or gaping away from the body while the back flesh spills over the edge.

If the mockup fits much better when we pull the corset mockup towards the back, it is very likely we just need to move material from the front, to the back.

For very curvy backs, bend back bones first!

Preparation of the corset mockup by creating darts in the front

To move things around, we start by pinching and pinning darts on the mockup.

Unless we are working with an asymmetrical shape, we want to keep darts symmetrical.

Dart number, size and placement should improve the look and fit of the mockup.

After pinning, mark the darts on fabric with a pen, on both sides as well as the dart point.

Take your time with making darts.
No need to rush it.

measuring created corset darts to prepare for pattern change

When you are happy with the darts and you are ready to start working on the pattern, remove all pins and measure all the darts.

We want to measure the width and length of darts.

Our goal is to move all the excess fabric gathered in the darts from front to back.

This will create more space for the flesh in the back but we don’t want to go crazy with it so we need to know just how much and where to add.

Removing the dart width from front corset pattern pieces

To mark the length of the dart, measure from the top edge down, following the pattern seam line.
(Dart points marked as “X”)

On the edge, measure the half of dart width in.
Mark those points.

Darts can be applied to one or both pattern seam lines, depending on the pattern shape as well as what we want to achieve.

Adding the dart width from front corset pattern pieces

To mark the length of the dart, measure from the top edge down, following the pattern seam line.
(Dart points marked as “X”)

On the edge, measure the half of dart width out.
Mark those points.

We can move front darts to the back mirrored on the side seam or just moved over to the back. Really depends on what we need for the fit.

Drawing the new corset pattern lines

With all dart measurements transferred from front to back, connect the marked out dart points to create new pattern seam lines.

Knowing where and how to move darts and reshape the pattern comes with experience and knowledge about how the pattern shape translates to the shape of the wearers body.

End of tutorial on How to fit a corset mockup to redistribute the underbust circumference better?

Walk the seams and make any and all needed adjustments.

Pattern is ready for a boned mockup!

 

Happy sewing!!!