How to make bone casings using the bias maker tool?
There are many different ways of adding boning to corsets. It’s not surprising because you don’t have a corset without boning. And you don’t have boning without bone channels, casings or tapes!
Different methods of making boning channels have different pros and cons. Making your own boning casings gives you the complete power and control over the durability and looks of the channels. With that in mind, it is more time consuming than other methods because you have to make it from scratch.
Think about it and choose wisely.
In this tutorial we will use the tool called a Bias Maker. Tool works on a basic principle of guiding the fabric edges to fold on them selves. You can do the same thing with a bit of card stock paper and your hands but I don’t want you to burn your fingers. Investing in this tool will pay itself off in no time if you like making corsets with this type of boning channels.
After you’ve made ALL of the bone casings, only thing left is sewing them on to your corset but this will be covered in a future tutorial.
Tutorial sample is made using 200g cotton calico, 8 and 10 mm wide spiral steel boning.
Aside from the instructional tutorial being available online, it can also be DOWNLOADED as a PDF file for offline viewing.
Making our own boning casings means we have full control over the look and durability.
It also opens interesting options like creating sturdy lightweight corsets made out of fabrics such as mesh and new.
Start by choosing the boning type and width. If using more than one size of boning on the
same corset, plan out bone casing details for them separately.
Find the bias maker tool of the appropriate size for chosen boning.
Bone Width + Bone Thickness + 3mm or 1/8”
Make samples to test how it works in practice.
Cut the strips of strength fabric on the fabric grain to save fabric or on the bias for easier sewing and less wrinkling.
Width of the strip should be around:
Bias Maker Size x 2
If you are experiencing wrinkling or crooked shape of the tape formed by the Bias maker, cut the strip a bit narrower and try again.
The thickness of the fabric might be making it difficult for the strip to be folded properly.
Bias Maker tools usually come in 6, 12, 18, 25 and 50 cm (finished bias tape width).
Feed the strip of fabric into the bias maker tool from the larger side.
Use a pin or an awl to push the fabric through the tool if it can’t be done by hand.
Make sure the tool is properly folding the sides of the fabric strip into a neat tape.
Some fabrics don’t want to cooperate with the tool.
If you cut it on grain, try using it cut on the bias and vice versa.
This might fix it but it really depends on the fabric in question.
Pin the beginning of the folded tape to your ironing board to anchor it.
Heat up your iron to the appropriate temperature for your strips of fabric.
Place the tip of your iron right next to the tip of the bias maker tool.
This way you will deliver the folded strip right under the heat and pressure of the iron. It won’t have a chance to unfold and lose shape.
Start slowly pulling on the bias maker handle.
Follow the bias tool with the iron slowly and carefully.
Don’t press the iron. Glide over the tape and let the weight of the iron itself do it’s thing.
After you’ve formed the fabric strips in to neat tapes with neatly folded edges, you can go back and iron it again.
This time, don’t glide or run the iron back and forth over the tape.
Place the iron over a piece of tape. Press down. Lift the iron and move to the next piece of tape.
This will make the casings look extra crisp and sharp.
Repeat until you have enough bone casings for your corset project!