How to make pattern adjustments for a curved back?
How to make patter adjustments for a curvy back?
While it is a simple process to do, it is a rather complex topic to tackle .
I will not be getting into details on how and why a person might have a very curvy back shape as there are many different reasons for it. Some of them even delve in to the topic of medical corsetry, something I’m not versed in.
For now, I will show you the basic concept at changing the shape of the center back pattern piece of corsets. This change allows the corset to more readily follow the curvature of the wearers back, which makes the corset more comfortable to wear.
Also, I highly recommend to bend the back lacing flat steel boning into a shape that better mimics the shape of the wearers back. This can be done on OTR finished corset as it helps with comfort on them as well!
In this tutorial, I haven’t used any specific measurements or values for the demonstration because it fully depends on the shape of the person that corset is being made for and I don’t have a formula for calculating any of the adjustment values.
Hope you will find this method helpful and happy sewing!
Method is demonstrated on Underbust corset pattern IRIS though the same principle can be applied to any other corset patterns.
Aside from the instructional tutorial being available online, it can also be DOWNLOADED as a PDF file for offline viewing.
Adjustments For a Curved Back
Follow the Body’s Line
Adjusting a corset pattern to better fit a curvy back line is quick and easy but will take a few mockups to get just right.
There are many reasons why someone may have a curvier than usually back but no matter the reason, we want to create a well fitting, comfortable corset to wear.
This tutorial will demonstrate the basic adjustment process of creating a curvier center back seam line.
Pattern used as an example is Underbust Corset Pattern IRIS by AraneaBlack.
Other adjustments may be necessary to perfect the fit of the rest of the corset in the case the figure we’re working with is significantly curvy.
Also, it is highly recommended to bend the flat steel boning around the grommets to prevent the straight steel from unevenly digging into the wearers flesh.
Amount and the shape of added curve to the boning depends solely on the corset style and the particular shape and proportions of the future wearer.
Start by grabbing a new piece of paper and the center back pattern piece.
Locate the major circumference lines if the pattern doesn’t have them already.
Draw the circumference lines on the blank piece of paper.
Transfer the pattern lines on to the paper with a pencil.
Cut the original pattern piece on the waist line to get two half’s.
To create a curving of the center back seamwe have to measure away from original line out.
This depends on how curvy the persons back is.It can be 1 to 5cm or 1/2” to 2”, if not more.
Pick a number. You’ll correct it during fitting.
Place the top portion of the original pattern piece on the drafting paper and match itto the pencil outline.
With a pin or an awl, hold the corner of the pattern in place right where the waist line and seam line cross.
Rotate the pattern piece towards the marked point on the circumference line.
Rotate until your reach the marked spot.
Make sure you aren’t placing the pen too far from the original pattern piece sides as that can lead to enlargementof the pattern as well as inaccurate lines.
Repeat the same process for the bottom half of the pattern.
Our main goal is to move the same amount of width of the original pattern piece to a different place, creating a different composition.
We are not adding space.
If the original pattern/mockup fits too tight in the back part, we can add extra room during the creation of the curved seam line of the center back.
After rotating the top and bottom pattern piece, keep the old side seam line and trace out the new center back seam line to create the new pattern piece.
Don’t forget to draw new top and bottom edges!
To finish everything off, smooth out all lines and walk the seams and make adjustment in seam length if needed.
Your pattern is ready for testing!