How to Offset Center Boning Channels?
How to offset center boning channels?
First off, you might be wondering why would you even want to do such a thing. Is it wrong if they are a bit off to one side or the other?
No, not when it comes to functionality. It is perfectly fine to divide your pattern pieces as covered in past tutorial “How to add more boning channels to corset patterns?”
This method is absolutely fine and functional but we can make things a bit nicer looking!
Now, we run into a little problem of asymmetry with corset constrictions that place just one bone on one side of the connecting seams. One such method is demonstrated in tutorial “Welt Seam Method Strength Layer with Floating Lining”, for example.
By offsetting the boning placements on the middle of pattern pieces, we correct the asymmetry. This in turn, makes the corset look a bit more balanced.
Learn how to do this to start working on your newest, better than ever before, corset!
Hope you will find this method helpful.
Method is demonstrated on Underbust corset pattern LOLITA though the same principle can be applied to any other corset patterns.
Aside from the instructional tutorial being available online, it can also be DOWNLOADED as a PDF file for offline viewing.
Offset Center Boning Channels
You don’t need it but it will make your corsets look better!!!
In this tutorial, you will upgrade your knowledge from a past tutorial “How to add more boning channels to corset patterns”.
You will take into account the boning channels sewing in the seam allowances before dividing your pattern into 1/2, 1/3 or 1/4, depending on how many boning channels can fit in the pattern piece.
This method is best used on corset constructions that place one bone per connecting seam.
Pattern used as an example is Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA by AraneaBlack.
First, we need to establish the general corset construction this method is applicable on.
This is used on constructions that have all seam allowances ironed to one side,from center front to center back, or vice versa.
Pick a side a stick to it, doesn’t matter which way you go.
Boning channel is located in or on that seam allowance.
In this example, we will work with seam allowances ironed from center front to center back.
Diagram illustrates where will the channels end up with this allowance orientation.
We will focus on patter piece 2 to explain the method.
In this example, we have the boning channel sewn directly into the seam allowance.
One tops stitch line right next to the connecting seam, to remove the stress from it.
Other top stitch line 9mm or 3/8” from the first line.
This creates a channel that can house a 6mm or 1/4” wide bone.
Now that you have the allowance channels parameters, measure the circumference width from the second top stitch line to the connecting seam.
Marked as “X”, “Y”, and “Z”.
Treat these as the widths of pattern pieces, instead of their usually full width like we did in the past tutorial on adding extra boning channels.
Divide the “X”, “Y”, and “Z”measures in half.In 1/3 or 1/4 if you can and want to fit more boning into the pattern piece.
“X” / 2 = “a”
“Y” / 2 = “b”
“Z” / 2 = “c”
From the connecting seam line, mark the values of “a”, “b”, and “c” on the circumference lines.
Measure the width of you boning casing or tape.
Divide the value in half.
Casing or tape / 2 = “W”
Measure the amount “W”from the marked halves on all circumference lines.
Connect the new points with straight lines.
Extend them to reach top and bottom edges.
Refine and smooth out the new line if needed.
You will cut the pattern piece on this new line after you’ve transferred everything else on to the fabric.
That way, you can use it as the guide for bone casing/tape placement.
Repeat the same process on all pattern pieces.
Your pattern is ready to be made into a corset.