How to remove hip wrinkles by drafting gussets?

How to remove hip wrinkles by drafting gussets?

Wrinkling can appear for many different reasons.
Most wrinkles appear for one of these reasons. Insufficient support of the fabric, bad fit with the garment being too tight or too loose or the fabrics bias is up to no good.
There for, there are many different methods on how to minimize them, if not remove completely.

One such method is making a gusset pattern piece and realigning it’s grain line. Simplest way to make a gusset is by drawing it’s shape on the offending pattern piece and cutting that part out. This way it can be used as a separate pattern piece.

Other potential way to remove or minimize wrinkling of fabric is to add more boning, drafting a gore pattern piece or reshaping the seam lines. As you can see, there are many options and if you don’t fancy the one shown in this tutorial, try another!

When sewing corsets, we want to make sure we are working with the characteristic of our fabrics and helping materials, instead of against them.

Hope you will find this method helpful and happy sewing!

Method is demonstrated on Overbust corset pattern HOPE though the same principle can be applied to any other corset patterns.

Free corset patterns

Aside from the instructional tutorial being available online, it can also be DOWNLOADED as a PDF file for offline viewing.

tutorial about how to remove hip wrinkles by drafting gussets. For smoother sewing corsets.

Find out another way to sew smooth corsets  in this tutorial on removing hip wrinkles by drafting gussets!

Explanation about why corsets get wrinkles on the side panels.

Many times, fabric will wrinkle on the corset sides, over the hips.

This is usually due to the side seam curve falling very close to the bias line of the fabric.

ALL fabrics stretch to some degree on the bias and that creates stress lines better known as wrinkles.

In this tutorial, you will learn how to use gussets to change the grain line to combat those unsightly lines.

Pattern used as an example is Overbust Corset Pattern HOPE by AraneaBlack.

Explanation of how to figure out if your pattern will have wrinkling problems

Start by figuring out how the pattern piece lays on the fabric.

It is obvious on the example pattern piece that the side seam lays very close to the fabrics bias.

Blue = Grain line
Green = Bias line
Red = Direction of the side seam line

Two different types of corset hip gusset styles

There are 2 commonly used gusset shape styles; angle gusset and curve gusset.
Can’t find better names for them so this is what you get.

Both work perfectly fine, the just look a bit different. Angle style is more “antiquey”.

Preparing the pattern for drawing the corset hip gusset

We’ll always start by drafting the angle gusset style that can, later on, be easily modified into a curve gusset.

Measure 5mm or 1/4” from the waist line down the side seam.

Draw a straight line on to the left, parallel to the waist line.

Divide the new line in thirds & draw a short line on the right angle.

How to remove wrinkles by drafting corset gussets

Measure 20mm or 7/8” down from the short line drawn from the second third.

This is the point of the angle gusset.

Connect this point to the starting point with a straight line.

Use the value of the third we used to draw the point for the angle gusset and measure if from opposite seam line, on the hip circumference line.

Corset hip gusset outline drawn

Measure the same third on the bottom edge of the corset.

Connect the newly marked point on the edge as well as the one on the hip line, with the point of the angle gusset.

With this, our rough shape of the angle gusset is drafted, ready for refinement.

Angle hip gusset corset pattern piece drafted gusset

Smooth out any very aggressively straight lines and/or strange corners.

No need to go overboard with the angle gusset style, just make sure it fits with the rest of the corset pattern lines.

Feel free to cut the gusset pattern piece at this point if you aren’t going for the curved gusset style.

Curve hip gusset corset pattern piece drafted gusset

To create the curve gusset, simply use the outline of the angle gusset as your shape guide to draft a pleasing new seam line.

You can make the curve as gentle or aggressive as you wish though I recommend not to deviate too much from the angle gusset parameters.

Add a notch or two for later help with sewing.

Cut out the new gusset pattern piece.

Hip corset pattern gusset drafted and grain line realigned

Change the grain line by dividing the gusset edge widths in half and connect with a straight line.

Voila! New grain line!

 

Happy sewing!

 

Want to learn how to sew gussets and gores into corsets?
Check out this “Wrinkle Free Gores & Gussets”  tutorial by Laura Loft.