Making a high back to fix back muffin top on a corset

How to make a high back and why would we do that to a corset?

Both very important questions. And very important answers.

Answering the how is the easy part. You might not think it but the method is very easy. If you’ve done pattern modification like adding suspender tabs, you know how to do it. It really is easy. We extend a bit here, a bit there and draw a new edge shape. Ta dam! High Back!
This tutorial will show you just that and with it, you will learn it yourself.

The tricky part is in identifying when to apply this method. If the high back of a corset isn’t simply and only a design feature, it was used to minimize or prevent the infamous back muffin top.

When we make corsets, there are many elements to consider as we hold all the power over the finished corset. So, during the mockup stage, we might (read:definitely will) encounter problems with the fit. One of those fit problems might be a back muffin top. Now, they can be tricky as there are a few different things that cause them and different causes, require different solutions.

In this tutorial, we focus on one cause, and, with that, one solution. To figure out if the back muffin top is caused by the corsets edge and the bra band working together to squeeze our flesh into an unsightly problem, we need to try the mockup (or finished corset) without the bra on. If the back muffin top stays, maybe a bit smaller but still there? Something else is causing it and I will cover those in future tutorials so stay tuned for those.

On the other hand, if the back muffin top basically disappears when we remove our bra… the bra band is causing it and we can go on ahead and apply this tutorials method to fix it.

Enjoy the tutorial and make ALL the corsets!!!

Method is demonstrated on Underbust corset pattern LOLITA though the same principle can be applied to any other underbust corset pattern.

Free corset patterns

Aside from the instructional tutorial being available online, it can also be DOWNLOADED as a PDF file for offline viewing.

Tutorial on Making a high Back corset pattern

Making a High Back Corset Pattern

Introduction to the topic of drafting high back on corset patterns

Let’s talk about a common problem many experience with underbust style corsets.

THE BACK MUFFIN TOP!!!

There are few different reasons why we might get flesh oozing over the top of the corset. Flesh has to go somewhere.

Corset is:

  • generally too small from waist up
  • too small in the back while being to large in the front
  • fitting fine but flesh gets squeezed between the corsets edge and the bra band

Pattern used as an example is Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA by AraneaBlack.

Explanation how to identify what is causing the back muffin top problem on a corset

Different problems, require different solutions. And different tutorials.

We will look at the easiest problem, when flesh gets trapped between the corset and the bra band.

To check if the bra is causing the problem…take it off. There should be minimal to no spill over problems without it.

When bra band causes this problem, we can change the bra for something better fitting and/or raise the back of our corset.

We want the back to at least touches the bra band but going over it doesn’t hurt.

Preparing and measuring for the high back corset pattern adjustement

Since our new edge height depends on the the bra band, we need to measure the distance between the corsets waist line and the band.

Since it is very difficult to measure our back ourselves, we will take the length on the side seam.(Marked as “X”)

This measurement doesn’t have to be extremely precise. We will use it as our minimum back height.

Preparation of the corset pattern for the high back to fix back muffin top

To start our corset pattern changes, we must locate the waist circumference line, if the pattern doesn’t have it marked already.

While it is possible to make changes to the shape of the edge on front pieces, we are focused on the back, so we will only work with back pieces.
From side seam to center back.

Start of the high back draft on a corset pattern

Since we are making an existing pattern longer, we need to prepare our pieces.

Measure the distance from the waist line up to mark out where the bra band starts. (Marked “X”)

Draw a line parallel to waist on this point.

Tutorial on how to draft high back on a corset to fix back muffin top

Now we can extend the seam lines and prepare pattern pieces for the new shape.

If we want to, we can make the center back even higher. (Marked “Y”)

To extend the pieces, we just use a ruler and follow the direction of the original.

Drawing the new high back edge line on a corset

Connect the pattern pieces, from waist to original edge.
Temporarily tape together.

Draw the shape of the new edge.

Most height concentrated on pieces closer to center back.

Adjusting the back modesty panel to fit the new center back length.

If your corset pattern has a back modesty panel, it too should be changed to match.

Simply measure distance between old and new edge on the center back piece. (Marked “Z”)
Cut the modesty panel on the underbust line.
Extend it by the value of Z-1cm.

Draw new side seam lines.

High back drafted and finished on an underbust corset pattern

Walk your new seam lines and make adjustments where and if needed.

Your pattern is ready for a boned mockup and fitting to iron out the final pattern details.

 

Happy sewing!!!