What is a welt seam method? “Sandwich”? We’ll make them edible?!
We’ll start from the very start by defining a welt seam. Basically it is a straight stitch that had both seam allowances ironed to one side. That is followed by two parallel lines of top stitching to secure the seam allowances down. This seam type is a fairly popular option in corset making. It is so popular there are at least 4 different variations used for corset construction.
This tutorial right here will show you how to upgrade the “Welt Seam Method Strength Layer with Floating Lining” so be sure to check it out first!
Tutorial contains the basic information on how to sew boning channels for corsets using the sandwich method.
When broken into pieces, sandwich method is a variation of the welt seam construction.
You will do the upgrade it by doubling it up! Two completely same strength layers stacked on top of each other!!!
This allows you to literally add strong and durable boning channels anywhere! Also, this method is a very good choice when using a substitute fabric instead of coutil.
It is easy to learn but requires precision.
Seam allowance widths depend on the fabric thickens, number of layers as well as boning width and thickness. As always, making samples before starting your work on the corset, is always encouraged.
Tutorial sample is made using 200g cotton calico and 5mm wide spiral steel boning.
Aside from the instructional tutorial being available online, it can also be DOWNLOADED as a PDF file for offline viewing.
Cut out all pattern pieces twice from the same strength fabric.
Start by laying your pattern pieces right side on right side (or face on face) and stitch them together with a straight stitch.
Be very precise and consistent when sewing.
With pieces connected, iron both seam allowance to one side. Either from center front to the center back or the other way around.
Pick one and stick with it. It doesn’t matter which one you pick, you just need to be consistent through out the corset.
Make sure you iron the seam allowances well. You don’t want crooked or creased boning channels on your corset.
Start making the corset by basting a waist tape the wrong side of one of the corset layers.
With the waist tape secured in place, lay the layers on top of each other, face on face to connect them on the center front and back line.
Flip it inside out and add the front busk to your corset before going further.
Line up seam lines on top of each other so their connecting seam lines match as best as possible.
Pin or baste in place the two corset layers together to prepare them for sewing boning channels.
Topstitch close to the connecting seam to start making the boning channels.
Distance from the connecting seam to the first line of topstitcing shouldn’t exceed 2mm or 5/64”.
Stitching should be very similar looking on both sides.
If not, unpick and try to reposition the two layers a bit better.
The other line of topstitching will for the bone channel.
Width of the boning channel depends greatly on the width and thickness of chosen boning, fabric thickness and the number of fabric layers.
Create some samples using the same materials the finished corset will be made with to test ideas and plan out the details.
Massive benefit of using the sandwich method construct corsets is the ability to add strong boning channels anywhere on the corset by simply stitching two parallel topstitch lines!
Check out this great tutorial “How to Make a Basic Two-Layer Coutil Corset” by Sidney Eileen. It shows how she made a corset, from start to finish, using this method of construction.