PDF pattern preparation part 3


Part three of the PDF pattern preparation tutorial.
You can download the Waspie pattern I’ve chosen as an example.

free corset patterns
–Walking seams–

It is highly recommended that you walk your seam lines from waist up and waist down if you’ve decided to create new lines on your pattern.
In short, to walk a seam means to check if the seams actually fit together.
For the next part, cut only the extra paper from the left side of the pattern.

To start, match up waist lines and place a pin or tip of your pen on it.

Now swing the pattern piece to match up one seam line to the other as much al long as it can.

You need to move your pin or pen on the point at which seam lines start to overlap or end up to far apart. From here you swing again.
Repeat until you reach the very top and bottom of pattern pieces.

If seam lines don’t match up, they need to be adjusted by making them longer or shorter compared to the original pattern lines.

–Adding details to pattern pieces–

You are also free to add connecting notches on very curvy pattern parts for an easier and more precise joining when pinning and sewing.

With everything checked and rechecked, finish cutting out your pattern piece.
You should have your modified pattern almost ready to be used.

Again, if you prefer to add seam allowances to paper patterns, you will have to do some extra work because we did cut off extra paper to make it possible to walk the seams.
Pattern pieces can be glued on a new paper or it can be traced on. don’t forget to transfer all the horizontal and vertical utility lines.

–Finishing touches–

After you add seam allowances, you just need to cut it all nice and neat. As usual, remember to cut on the inside of lines to be sure you don’t make the pattern larger.

To really finish our pattern, all marks need to be transferred to the back side.
Simplest method is using scissors to snip the paper on important lines and points that we want to make visible on the other side.
Try to avoid cutting too deep because corset pattern pieces are very narrow and a deep cut could make them more likely to rip apart.

When you have all those little snips done, flip the pattern piece and make them more visible with a pen.
Also, join end points of horizontal and vertical utility lines using a ruler.

Same process can be done by using the notcher tool instead of scissors. Again, highly recommended to make pretty shallow snips.
Keep in mind that notchers work best when working with heavier paper like card-stock  and similar.
Write on the back of the pattern piece its number so you can easily identify it.

I know that it was a long journey but with all that work we have a pattern that is prepared to be used to make a garment.

Now you can start working on a boned sloper, mock up or toile to check the fit of the pattern and tweak it to make it better for you before even starting to think about touching that super pretty fabric.

Hope this was helpful and I wish you all the luck on your creative journey!