Underbust Corset Pattern ALLY

  • Underbust corset pattern ALLY black leather front
  • Underbust corset pattern ALLY black leather front side
  • Underbust corset pattern ALLY black leather side
  • Underbust corset pattern ALLY black leather back side
  • Underbust corset pattern ALLY black leather back side

Underbust Corset Pattern ALLY  is a completely free digital pattern for you to play with and explore corsetmaking.
It is a model with 6 pattern pieces per side and an optional suspendable modesty panel.

UPDATE (20.08.2020.) : I have remastered ALLY pattern to a better improved version 2! She is now much smoother and easier to sew together. Hope you will enjoy the new Curvy Modern Underbust Corset ALLY!

Pattern is named Ally which is short for Alison. I’m a fan of an adult comic book called Sunstone and I’m a big fan of Ally, one of the main characters.

Pattern Difficulty : Beginner ●●○○○○

I’ve used this pattern to make my one and only leather corset. Since that corset is a fan favorite, I’ve decided to digitalize and grade it so you too can make your own leather corset. If you wish so…

This pattern has been made with a waist reduction of 10cm or 4″ and it has a 5cm or 2″ lacing gap included.

You can make and sell as many corsets by using this pattern.

Measurements and sizes:

Pattern is originally drafted using Metric values!
Imperial values have been converted and rounded up, making the values in Inches approximations.

Measurement shown in the size charts are values for the finished corset not body measurements!
All circumference heights are clearly marked on all pattern pieces making it easier for you to adjust.

Always sew a mockup/toile/sloper to test out the pattern fit and to further adjust it to your needs.
Mockups for corsets should be made and bones as similarly to the finished corset as possible.

Good mock up fabrics include upholstery calico, upholstery twill, tarp, artisan canvas, ticking and coutil.
If steel boning or specialized corset plastic boning isn’t an option, heavy duty zip ties are a great substitute. Read more about different corset parts and how they work in my Corset Parts 101!

For easier use, as well as re-usability, back lacing strips can be made and sewn on to corset mock ups. It creates a very sturdy back lacing while saving grommets. To make your own, check out my tutorial!
A reusable front closure strip can be made in a similar manner, be it for busk, zipper, swing hook or lacing closure.


ALLY Underbust modern curvy corset pattern size chart metric
ALLY Underbust modern curvy corset pattern size chart imperial

Check out my pattern adjustment/grading TUTORIALS for more info on how to alter these patterns for a better fit.

Black and white line diagram of the front and back view of the underbust corset pattern ALLY
Underbust modern curvy corset ALLY pattern pieces diagram for version two
Download ALLY

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How was the sample for Underbust Modern Curvy Corset Pattern ALLY made?

Example corset is made using a Welt Seam Double strength layers also known as Sandwich Method  with a layer of black herringbone coutil and black cow hide (garment grade).

It is very important to note that I had no idea about genuine leather, what types of it there exist or how to work with them so I probably did something very wrong along the way, and I simply cannot share with you  any kind of deep leather knowledge.

Strength layer in black herringbone coutil is the inside layer while the “other” strength layer is fully made in genuine black cow leather. For leather, I went into the shop, touched a lot of pieces there and chose one I found the most appealing. I survived, and so did this corset.

Front busk is of the heavyduty wide type. It creates a lovely straight front which I personally adore. All boning is 5mm wide spiral steel, except for the 4 bones hugging the row of black two part grommets/eyelets with washer, which are 10mm wide flat steel.

Edges are bound with black 100% cotton plain weave fabric. Machine stitched on but finished by hand on the inside of the corset.

Modesty panel is suspendable and is made the same way as the corset.

I’ve purchased the finished purple satin ribbon roses and hand-stitched on to the center top edge and front side hips.

Many different types of corset construction can be applied to Underbust Corset Pattern ALLY, it is purely a question of preference!
Here are a few different methods to check out :

Visit the RESOURCES page for everything you might want on need for corset making. Including supply shops, more patterns, sewing methods, books, classes.

– Video Pattern Tutorials –

Check out video tutorials on how to change corset patterns to achieve the best, most comfortable fit.
You will find out how to adjust the length of a corset pattern together with how to grade sizes on a multi-sized patterns such as the AraneaBlack corset patterns.
To spice things up, you will learn how to manipulate circumferences on any corset pattern, even those that are available in just one size!

Adjusting corset patterns – Mixing sizes
Adjusting corset patterns – Cut & Spread Method
Adjusting corset patterns – Lengths